Author Topic: Meister A6M3 Model 22 Zeke Build  (Read 17182 times)

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Offline Lane C.

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Meister A6M3 Model 22 Zeke Build
« on: September 02, 2017, 09:22:30 am »
Hot on the heels of the CARF P-51D comes the Meister Zero build. I've had the kit for 2.5 years and finally decided to make it a flying model. Done a bit on it yesterday with the glass fuselage. Going to mount the engine and setup the fuselage first, then build the wing and tail. I will run a DA-100 twin-cylinder and use Sierra retracts. Hope to have it ready next year. We'll see how that goes.

I have a laser cut kit for the fuselage formers, wing, tails, spinner, canopy, plans, and cowl as part of the kit. Plus all wood for sheeting the wing and tail surfaces.

The version will be a Model 52 A6M5 Zero with 108 inch span. Can be built as a Model 21 with 118 inch span as well. But I like the later versions. All Zeros were Japanese Navy birds. Some assume they were split between Navy and Army, but they were always under control of the Navy. After Midway, the Navy was kinda short on Carriers, so, they became land-based and were painted green.

I may re-use Saburo Sakai's A6M5 Model 52 as a color scheme. I used this for the basis of my CMP Zero. Sakai was the highest ranking Japanese pilot that survived the war. He claimed 64 kills as I recall. Two other higher ranking pilots were killed before the war ended. Saburo lived until 2000.


Got the plans out to measure where the formers go.


Fuselage is on two sections. Makes it easier to do the initial work.


One former dry fitted.


Looking from the bottom side.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2019, 01:23:23 pm by Lane C. »

Offline Joystick

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2017, 06:28:39 pm »
Hey, how can you start another build when you haven't even flown your P-51?

You need at least two or three hundred flights on the P-51 to get it broken in.
CHECK SIX

Signed: Steve Rogers (As far as you know)

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. For Herb: All facts have not been personally verified by me for accuracy. Use them at your own risk.

Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2017, 07:49:46 pm »
Steve! This is CRABTREE AIRMOTIVE! Did you forget that? We do many things at once. It's called mulit-tasking. Actually, just needed something to do. ha

Got a few more things done on the Zeke today. Got another former B3 fitted with the sub former. This supports the wing hold down system with a cross brace of 1 inch square basswood from formers B3 to B4.



Smoothed out the rough cut edge of the fuselage front and got the firewall fitted.



Next, trimmed the other 1/4 inch firewall half and epoxied on bottom of the front piece. Only used 28 clamps. Next I will epoxy and glass the firewall in place. I might even use 2-part Hysol! Only thing with Hysol is it takes 12 to 24 hours to setup firm; two or three days to really get hard. You cannot move it until it's dried 12 hours unless you have it screwed in place.


Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2017, 11:04:20 am »
Got the firewall clear of clamps and sanded the edges free of epoxy. Temporarily screwed it to the fuselage so i can fit the engine when it comes in. I'll need to build an engine box to slide fore/aft to fit the cowl.



Plenty of room around the firewall for Hysol and then some glass tape and Z-Poxy to really secure it. I won't glue it in until I decide where to have the engine box so I can cut the square opening in the firewall on the work table.



Zero spinner. Note the flange on the backing plate. The spinner is actually inside the cowl a small distance.


Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2017, 02:41:50 pm »
Got the Dremel tool out and opened things up. First did the Cowl.




Spinner pretty well fills the opening.



Then the cockpit area.


Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2017, 11:26:13 pm »
Had to make a bulkhead/former that Meister didn't furnish. But, it was listed on the plans. I traced it out and made my own bulkhead since I need it to hang the servos on the aft side and support the gas tank on the fore side.

It's almost all the way forward and just in front of the instrument panel. Not sure why Dino didn't include this former as you need something there to work from. Oh well, it's there now. I still need to make a pass thru hole or holes in this former and figure out how I am going to support the servos and gas tank. The servos need to be as far forward as possible to keep weight off the tail end. The Zero has a short nose and one extra ounce in the tail requires 10 ounces in the nose to balance out. It adds up quick. I'm still doing some layout lines and a few things before I glue the formers in place. Once they are glued in, it's really hard to cut holes and get support wood to be square and level.



Here's the overall view of all the fuselage formers, not including the firewall.

« Last Edit: September 04, 2017, 11:31:11 pm by Lane C. »

Offline dlabby

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #6 on: September 06, 2017, 08:52:25 am »
You are a builder extrodinaire. I will be watching. Is that big wing a 1 or 2 piece for transport? Saturday Big Bird wx is looking good. Hope you can make it over.
Darrell Abby

Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2017, 06:34:54 pm »
Hi Darrell, thanks, but I'm not that great a builder. You, Jack Haynes, Max Ficken, Lee Rice, Ed Couch, are great builders. Going to be a 2 piece wing. Planning on bringing the CARF P-51D out for viewing on Sat. I'd like to bring the P-47 to fly, but want to show the P-51. Cannot haul them both!

Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2017, 05:33:26 pm »
Back to work. Received the DA-100 on Friday. First thing to mount the engine is to determine centering and how much spinner clears the cowl.



Looks good.



Better view.



X marks the spot. The firewall needs cutting on the outlined spot.



Made the engine box. It will fit thru the hole in the firewall and be adjustable in height or forward and aft, depending on your viewpoint.



Engine sitting on the box.



With spinner. Once the box hole is cut in the firewall, I can tack the engine box in place with some servo screws and fine tune the engine mounting.


Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2017, 03:58:28 pm »
Cut out the firewall for the engine box to slide thru. Got the engine box opened up for access to the fuel tank and fuel lines.



Lots of room for fuel lines. I use a 3 line tank system - fuel in, vent, fuel pickup to engine.


Offline dlabby

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #10 on: September 18, 2017, 08:03:28 pm »
Do you have some down and right thrust in there? Is that denoted on plans?
Darrell Abby

Offline gunslinger

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #11 on: September 19, 2017, 02:07:10 pm »
Looking good, Lane!

I noticed you had removed the Zeke from sale on RCSB.  I will be watching with interest.
Tim Lovett
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Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #12 on: September 20, 2017, 05:11:38 pm »
Yo Darrell, Just by accident there is some right and down thrust. For some reason, the engine box front plate was out of square in those two directions. That's what Bob Ross the TV oil painter calls, "A Happy Accident."

Yo Tim, I always said if I didn't get what I had in it, I was going to build it. So, that's how it went. Zeros just fly too dang good!

I got the other side cowl flaps cut out and glassed in place. Next, I had my neighbor who has a machine shop cut down some stand offs to 1-5/8 inches for the cowl ring mounts. Then I tapped the holes for 10-32 threads.



The cowl ring needs to be bolted to the stand offs, but at a very specific place. This is a blind mounting situation where I cannot determine where the hole should be without fitting the cowl over the ring first on the fuselage. To find the hole, I made a jig that fits over the stand off on one side of the cowl ring and slides over the top of the cowl ring to show me where the hole should be. I then drew a circle inside the hole and the dead center of that is where I drill the new hole.

Jig made from two pieces of balsa and a brass tube to drill the hole. A 1/4" block was placed between the two pieces and CA'd.





Another view of the jig over the stand off.



And another view showing the pencil mark.



View of the cowl ring in the position it will reside. I had to offset the ring to allow the cowl flaps to be open to allow exit air from the DA-100.



After I knew where the holes were, I removed most of the plywood to leave just enough to hold the cowl in position. I will add some more plywood on the front side of the ring to hold some 6-32 machine screws. Probably at least 6 screws.



Now, there is ample room for the hot air to pass thru the ring and out the cowl.



Semi-done view of the cowl with flaps open from the bottom side. I still need to do some work on exactly how the cowl should sit before screwing it down.



View from the right side.

« Last Edit: September 20, 2017, 05:36:08 pm by Lane C. »

Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #13 on: September 20, 2017, 05:20:19 pm »
This post is out of sequence, but I should show how I opened the cowl flaps for the exit air. The cowl fit on the fuselage dead tight, so there was no way to properly cool the DA-100. The outlines for the flaps are in the glasswork, so it's just a matter of carefully following them with a Zona saw.

After cutting them out one by one, I glued them back in position at a 20 degree open angle with CA. After getting all of one side done, I had to glass them on with Z-Poxy and 2 inch tape before moving to the other side - very fragile with just CA holding them in place.



Another view. And that takes us back to the above post where both sides have been done.


Offline Lane C.

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Re: Meister Zeke Build
« Reply #14 on: September 21, 2017, 03:50:44 pm »
Moved the box up only 3/8 inch and notched the corners for muffler clearance. Wanted the spinner a bit closer to the air intake cross bar.



Mufflers in place.



I laminated two 1/4 inch plywood pieces and then glued it in the void area.



Tight fit. I still need to pin the corner joints on the engine box with a few bamboo dowels welding rod sections to add the last bit of shear strength to the box. Already used tri-stock inside.



I bolted the engine to the box with 1/4-20 bolts and Tee-Nuts. The engine box is still free to move, but in there very tight after refitting. I can set the fuselage horizontal since the engine is bolted in.



Also installed the mufflers and cut the cowl for them to poke thru. Not sure how they will fit thru the cowl while installing it with the front baffles installed. May have to slot the openings lengthwise (forward/aft). I can cut them just a tad shorter if I have to.



Side view.



Moving the engine box up got the spinner closer to the cross bar of the intake.



Little bit better view inside the cowl flaps.


« Last Edit: September 23, 2017, 09:33:02 am by Lane C. »